Of all the parquet patterns, none makes an entrance quite like the Versailles panel. Once reserved for palaces and grand country houses, this most theatrical of floors is enjoying a genuine revival in Britain’s finest homes. Here is the story behind it, and why it works so well in interiors today.

A floor born in a palace

The Versailles panel takes its name from the Palace of Versailles, where it was introduced in the late seventeenth century to replace the marble floors that were forever being damaged by water. The solution was a large square panel of interwoven oak blocks, framed by diagonal borders, grand enough for a palace, yet warmer and quieter underfoot than stone. The design has carried the name ever since.

What makes a Versailles panel

Each panel is a square composed of diagonally woven blocks held within a border, so that the pattern repeats as a series of large, self-contained tiles across the room. It is a world away from a running herringbone: where herringbone draws the eye along, Versailles anchors it, creating a sense of order and grandeur. Because the panels are large and intricate, they are almost always made to order.

Why it is making a comeback

Two things are driving the revival. The first is a renewed appetite for statement floors. Homeowners and designers increasingly want the floor itself to be a feature, not just a backdrop. The second is a wider return to craftsmanship and provenance: a hand-made Versailles floor carries a sense of history and skill that a plain board simply cannot. In a beautifully restored townhouse or a bold contemporary space, a Versailles floor is unforgettable.

Where it works best

Versailles panels reward space and light. They look magnificent in entrance halls, drawing rooms, dining rooms and large reception spaces where the full repeat of the pattern can be appreciated. In smaller rooms the scale can feel cramped, so we often suggest herringbone or chevron there instead. You can compare them all in our guide to parquet patterns.

Species, tone and finish

Traditionally laid in oak, a Versailles floor can be taken in almost any direction by its finish. A pale, natural oil keeps it light and current; a smoked or fumed oak lends drama; a rich stain gives the deep, aged tone of an old country house. As with all our floors, the finish is applied by hand, and we will show you samples in your own light before anything is made.

Made for your home

Because every Versailles panel is built to order, the size of the panel, the block layout, the species and the finish can all be tailored to your room. It is the ultimate bespoke floor, and exactly the kind of project we love. Explore the possibilities on our bespoke flooring page, browse tones in the collection, or get in touch to design a Versailles floor for your home.

The finish is the last thing that goes onto a wood floor, and in many ways it is the most important decision you will make. It sets the look, the feel underfoot and, crucially, how the floor copes with real life, children, pets, heels and the daily traffic of a busy London home. The two finishes we are asked about most are hardwax oil and lacquer. Here is how they differ, and how to choose.

What is hardwax oil?

Hardwax oil is a blend of natural oils and waxes that soaks into the timber rather than sitting on top of it. It hardens within the surface of the wood, leaving a natural, low-sheen finish that shows off the grain beautifully. Because the oil becomes part of the wood, the floor keeps its authentic texture. You feel the timber, not a coating.

What is lacquer?

Lacquer, sometimes called varnish, forms a thin, durable film on top of the wood. It seals the surface under a protective layer, which can be matt, satin or gloss. That film is what gives lacquer its hard-wearing, easy-wipe reputation, and it is why many pre-finished floors arrive lacquered as standard.

Look and feel

This is where personal taste comes in. Hardwax oil gives a soft, matt, natural appearance with real depth. It is the choice for anyone who wants the floor to look and feel like wood. Lacquer sits slightly above the timber and can range from a barely-there matt to a bright gloss, giving a crisper, more uniform surface.

Durability and everyday wear

Both finishes are tough, but they wear differently. A lacquered surface is very resistant to spills and scuffs, but when it does wear through, typically in doorways and other pinch points, the damage shows as a visible patch, and putting it right usually means re-coating the whole floor. Hardwax oil is more forgiving of that kind of localised wear, and small scratches tend to blend in rather than stand out.

Repairs and maintenance

This is the deciding factor for many of our clients. An oiled floor can be spot-repaired: a worn patch in front of the kitchen sink can be cleaned and re-oiled by hand, blending seamlessly, without touching the rest of the room. A lacquered floor cannot be patched invisibly. When it needs attention, the whole surface is screened and re-coated. For high-traffic areas, the ability to maintain an oiled floor area by area is a real advantage.

Day to day, both are easy to live with. Oiled floors like an occasional maintenance oil or soap; lacquered floors just need sweeping and a barely-damp mop. You will find our full routine in how to care for your hardwood floor.

So which should you choose?

• Choose hardwax oil if you want the most natural look and feel, and you value being able to repair and refresh high-wear areas without redoing the whole floor. It is our preference for most bespoke and period-home projects.
• Choose lacquer if you want a very low-maintenance, wipe-clean surface, a more uniform appearance or a higher sheen, and you are happy to re-coat the whole floor when the time comes.

In truth there is no single right answer. It depends on your rooms, your household and the look you are after. Whichever you choose, we apply finishes by hand on site for the best possible result. You can see finishes across our hardwood collection and on our bespoke floors, or we can bring samples to your home. Book a free consultation and we will help you choose the right finish for the way you live.

Underfloor heating has become one of the most popular features in modern homes and extensions, and the good news is that a real wood floor works beautifully over it, giving you warmth underfoot and natural character. The key is choosing the right board and installing it properly.

Can you put wood flooring over underfloor heating?

Yes, absolutely, but not every wood floor is suitable. Wood naturally responds to heat and moisture by expanding and contracting slightly. Over underfloor heating, which repeatedly warms and cools, you need a floor that stays stable through those cycles. That is where the type of construction matters.

Why engineered wood is the best choice

Engineered wood is the ideal partner for underfloor heating. Its cross-layered core is far more dimensionally stable than solid timber, so it moves very little as the floor heats and cools. You still get a genuine hardwood surface, so it looks and feels exactly like a solid floor, but it behaves far better over heating.

Solid wood, by contrast, moves more and is generally not recommended over underfloor heating unless very carefully specified.

Getting the installation right

• Commissioning: the heating should be run and the screed fully dried before the floor goes down.
• Acclimatisation: the boards need time to adjust to the room before fitting.
• Even warm-up: the temperature should be brought up gradually once the floor is laid.
• Board choice: mid-width boards and stable species tend to perform best.

Keeping your floor happy

Once installed, a few simple habits keep everything stable: bring the temperature up and down gradually with the seasons, avoid sudden spikes, and keep the surface temperature within the recommended limit. Rugs can trap heat, so we will advise on that too.

All of the engineered floors in our collection are suitable for use with underfloor heating, and can be made into bespoke patterns. Get in touch and we will help you specify the right floor for your heating system.

One of the best things about a real wood floor is how easy it is to live with. A little regular care keeps it looking beautiful for decades, and unlike most surfaces, it can always be refreshed rather than replaced. Here is how to look after yours.

Everyday cleaning

Sweep, dust-mop or vacuum regularly to lift the grit and dust that can scratch the surface over time. When you need to clean more thoroughly, use a barely-damp mop and a cleaner made specifically for wood floors. The key word is damp, not wet.

What to avoid

• Standing water: wipe up spills promptly. Water is wood flooring’s worst enemy.
• Steam mops: the heat and moisture can damage the finish and the wood beneath.
• Harsh or all-purpose cleaners: bleach, ammonia and generic sprays can strip or dull the finish.
• Dragging furniture: lift, do not drag, and use felt pads under legs.

Protecting your floor

Place doormats at entrances to catch grit and moisture, use rugs in high-traffic areas and under dining chairs, and fit felt pads to furniture. If you have pets, keeping their claws trimmed helps. A little humidity control in very dry months keeps the boards stable too.

Long-term care

An oiled floor can be re-oiled in high-wear areas without redoing the whole floor, which makes maintenance simple. A lacquered floor can be screened and re-coated when it starts to look tired. And when the day finally comes that the floor has taken a lifetime of wear, it can be fully sanded and refinished back to like-new.

Choosing the right finish from the start makes care easier. You can explore the options in our collection, or ask us for finish-specific care advice for your floor.

Underneath a tired, scratched or grey-looking wooden floor there is very often a beautiful floor waiting to be rediscovered. Sanding and refinishing is one of the most satisfying things we do, and it is usually far cheaper and more sustainable than replacing a floor. Here is how the process works.

When does a floor need sanding?

If your floor is scratched, worn back to bare patches, water-marked, cupped, or simply looks dull and lifeless, it is a good candidate. Floors that were previously painted or varnished can also be stripped back to the natural wood. As long as there is enough thickness left in the boards, they can usually be refinished.

The sanding process, step by step

• Preparation: we clear and protect the room, punch down any protruding nails and fix loose or squeaking boards.
• Coarse sanding: the first pass removes the old finish and any surface damage.
• Fine sanding: successively finer grades smooth the wood and open up the grain.
• Edging and detailing: specialist tools reach right up to skirtings and into corners.
• Finishing: the floor is cleaned and sealed with your chosen finish.

Keeping the dust down

The biggest worry people have about sanding is mess. We use modern, dust-managed sanding equipment with extraction that captures the vast majority of dust at source, so it is far cleaner than the sanding of years gone by. We still protect adjoining rooms and tidy up at the end of each day, so your home stays liveable throughout.

Choosing your finish

Once the floor is bare, you have options: a natural oil that nourishes the wood and is easy to patch-repair, a hard-wearing lacquer, or a coloured stain to change the tone entirely. We will show you samples on your own floor so you can see the result before we commit.

Want to know if your floor can be saved? We are happy to take a look and tell you honestly. Learn more on our sanding and restoration page, or book a free site visit.

Parquet is where a wood floor becomes something more than a surface. The way the blocks are arranged completely changes the feel of a room, from crisp and contemporary to grand and traditional. Here is a guide to the patterns we are asked for most, and where each one works best.

Herringbone

The classic. Rectangular blocks are laid at right angles to form a distinctive zig-zag of interlocking Ls. Herringbone has been used in fine homes for centuries and never dates. It suits almost any room, adds a sense of craft, and works beautifully in both period and modern interiors. Laid in a warm oak, it is timeless; in a smoked or darker finish, it feels wonderfully contemporary.

Chevron

Often confused with herringbone, chevron is subtly different. Here the blocks are cut at an angle and meet point to point, forming continuous, unbroken zig-zag lines that run the length of the room. The effect is more streamlined and elegant, and it can make a space feel longer. Chevron is a favourite in smart, design-led interiors.

Versailles panels

The most grand of all. Versailles panels are large square panels of interwoven blocks, originally designed for the palace itself. They bring real drama and craftsmanship to entrance halls, reception rooms and any space where you want a floor to be a centrepiece. Because each panel is made to order, they are the ultimate bespoke floor.

Basket weave and beyond

Basket weave arranges blocks to look like woven strips, giving a softer, more traditional feel. Beyond these classics, parquet can be laid in brick-bond, double herringbone and custom designs. If you have seen a pattern you love, we can almost certainly make it.

Choosing the right pattern for your room

Larger, well-proportioned rooms can carry bolder patterns like Versailles; smaller rooms often look best with herringbone or chevron. The wood species, block size and finish matter just as much as the pattern itself. You can see our full range of designs on the bespoke flooring page, and browse finishes in our collection.

Every bespoke floor we make is finished by hand in the colour and grade you choose. Get in touch to talk through the right pattern for your home.

It is one of the first questions we are asked on almost every project: should I go for solid wood or engineered wood? Both give you a genuine hardwood floor with real character, but they are built differently and suit different situations. Here is a straightforward guide to help you decide.

What is solid wood flooring?

Solid wood flooring is exactly what it sounds like: each board is a single piece of timber, usually oak, all the way through. Its great advantage is longevity. Because it is solid throughout, it can be sanded back and refinished many times over its life, so a good solid floor can last for generations and be made to look new again decades from now.

The trade-off is that solid wood moves with changes in temperature and humidity. It expands and contracts more than engineered board, which is why it is not usually the best choice over underfloor heating or in rooms that see big swings in moisture.

What is engineered wood flooring?

Engineered wood has a real hardwood top layer, the part you see and walk on, bonded to a stable core of cross-layered plywood. You still get an authentic wood floor, but the layered construction makes it far more stable. It copes much better with underfloor heating, humidity and the drier air of modern, well-insulated homes.

Good-quality engineered board has a thick top layer, which means it too can be sanded and refinished, though usually fewer times than solid wood.

Which should you choose?

• Choose solid wood if you want maximum longevity, plan to refinish the floor several times over the years, and the room does not have underfloor heating.
• Choose engineered wood if you have underfloor heating, an open-plan or modern space, a basement or an apartment, or simply want a floor that is more forgiving of everyday conditions.

In practice, we specify engineered oak for most modern homes and extensions, and solid or engineered for period properties depending on the room. Both are available across our hardwood collection, and both can be made into bespoke parquet patterns.

Still not sure?

The right answer depends on your rooms, your heating and how you live. We are always happy to talk it through and bring samples so you can see and feel the difference. Book a free consultation and we will give you honest advice with no pressure.